original

my repro

I am no longer offering the kit, you can make your own.

Below, I show you how I make an original looking battery so you can make your vintage radio that requires a No. 6 "A" cell look and operate as it did originally.

DISCLAIMER! PLEASE NOTE THAT THE AUTHOR ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR PROBLEMS, ERRORS OR FAILURES THAT MAY OCCUR IN ANY ATTEMPT FOLLOWING THE SUGGESTIONS I HAVE OUTLINED BELOW. THESE ARE ONLY SUGGESTIONS AND SOME DETAILS MAY HAVE BEEN BE  LEFT  OUT  OR  LEFT UP TO THE  BUILDER TO  FIGURE OUT.

Refer to the steps and pictures below (enlarge images by clicking on them) and follow these suggestions:

Option 1 - order a Modern No. 6 battery and re-label it with one or more of my labels.

Option 2 (instructions below):

• Start with a 2.5" paper mailing tube. I use the 13" size that can be cut to make 2 batteries. - image #1 (below)

• Cut the tube in to 2, 6-1/8" lengths being careful to make true and even cuts. - image #2

• Trim the lip from one of the mailing tube ends. - image #3

• Punch or drill holes for the hardware, install 5/8 brass 8/32 bolts, thumb nuts and wire. Be sure the terminals are flat against the plastic end cap so they do not interfere with the batteries to be installed later. Put a piece of electrical tape over exposed terminal area to prevent contact with the batteries that will be installed later. - image #4

• Apply a bead of Elmer's glue as shown in - image #5

• Trim & remove excess glue. - image #6

• Carefully push the prepared tube end (with hardware & wires mounted up into the glue bead leaving 3/16" space evenly above the top of the plastic tube end. - image #7

• Let the glue dry for about 30 - 40 minutes. Before pouring the epoxy, carefully apply a coating of Vaseline or wax to the top threaded area of the brass posts (this is to prevent the epoxy from migrating up the threads of the posts). Do not allow any of the wax or Vaseline to get any on the areas that will be submerged in the epoxy. Make sure the top is perfectly level and fill the end cap with *epoxy tinted to the desired color all the way to the paper brim. Note; the Elmer's glue will not adhere to the plastic end cap, the glue is to seal it to the paper so the epoxy will not leak through - image #8

• *I use Tap Plastic's Super Hard 4- 1 epoxy and their pigments. I'm sure other brands and resins will work equally as well.

The epoxy will require 24 or more hours to completely cure, then continue with these steps (below):

• Prepare 2 dual "C" holders (available from Radio Shack) as shown in. - image #9

• Rewire each holder so when the batteries are installed as shown, they will be 4 batteries in parallel. - image #10

• Insulate all the exposed wire and outside contact areas (all areas are not shown), be sure and do all on each end of both holders). - image 11

• It is very important that you make sure you have wired the holders correctly so all 4 batteries are in parallel and installed as shown, wire the holders so the center (top of No. 6 terminal) is positive. - image #12

• The batteries and  holders are now ready to stuff in the tube. If you sized everything correctly, the the batteries and holders should fit snugly in the tube with the end cap in place.

• I suggest trimming off the excess label with a very sharp razor knife after the label is secured in place and then placing the end cap on. - image #13

•  Your battery is ready to use - image #14

I strongly recommend that you use only high quality, brand new, fresh batteries such as Duracell or Energizers. Since the batteries are all in parallel, one weaker battery will drain power from the others and discharge more quickly. Another way to put this is there will be current flow from the strong batteries to the weak one/s having a battery charging effect.