I offer replica battery
I no longer offer replica batteries. I do the following:
Battery Labels for sale
Info on battery powered
Info on make your own
Info on making replica batteries for the
Make a replacement for the E233, 4.2 volt Mercury
Info on making the Philco Safari battery
above represents a sample of some of my battery
have been applied to replica batteries that I have made
Below are my battery label offerings
Use the PayPal button to order
All "A" battery labels shown are the standard
No. 6 size; (2, 5/8" OD. x 6 - 1/8" tall). The labels are made to wrap
around a tubular frame of a replica battery.
Ordering & Shipping Info PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING!
$20.95 for the first two labels,
discounted price options for more. You may mix & match labels when
ordering. Inquire for purchase of 11 or
PayPal will add shipping cost to each item except
international orders. I will
always combine multiple orders &
refund any shipping overcharge.
PAPER MEDIA OPTION; labels
are laser printed and
on peel & stick (self adhesive backed paper) or
heavier, high quality paper, non-adhesive
backed (an option when ordering).
Batteries labels for the Radiola IV battery needs
IMPORTANT INFO ABOUT the BATTERIES
- Please click >
and Read Before Ordering
click on any of the above for enlarged view
The above info is to provide some basic
information for those wishing to make functional and authentic
looking batteries for the
Radiola IV or other battery radios of
the 1920s. I have reproduction labels of original batteries of
various brands available and can be seen and ordered by clicking
here. I offer detailed instructions on making the "A" cells.
To make your own "B" & "C" cells, I
provide only basic info, other details
are left up to one's imagination and abilities. The measurements
for the batteries I made (and what you get when ordering) are provided on the
enlarged views. The "B" battery labels do not have adhesive backing and must be
cut and trimmed after mounting to your box.
PLEASE READ MY:
Info on battery powered radios
REPLICA No. 6 "A" cell
replica instruction suggestions
I MADE THEM
I'm going to show you how I make an
original looking battery so you can make your vintage radio that
requires a No. 6 "A" cell look and operate as it did originally.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE AUTHOR ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR
PROBLEMS, ERRORS OR FAILURES THAT MAY OCCUR IN ANY ATTEMPT
FOLLOWING THE SUGGESTIONS I HAVE OUTLINED BELOW. THESE ARE ONLY
SUGGESTIONS AND SOME DETAILS MAY HAVE BEEN BE LEFT
OUT OR LEFT UP TO THE BUILDER TO FIGURE
Refer to the steps and pictures below
(enlarge images by
clicking on them) and follow these suggestions:
Start with a 2.5" paper mailing tube,
these can be ordered from PaperMart.com;
the 13" size that can be cut to make 2 batteries. -
image #1 (below)
Cut the tube in to 2, 6-1/8" lengths being
careful to make true and even cuts. - image #2
Trim the lip from one of the mailing
tube ends. - image #3
Punch or drill holes for the hardware,
install 5/8 brass 8/32 bolts, thumb nuts and wire. Be
sure the terminals are flat against the plastic end cap so they
do not interfere with the batteries to be installed later.
Put a piece of electrical tape over exposed terminal area to
prevent contact with the batteries that will be installed later. -
Apply a bead of Elmer's glue as
shown in - image #5
Trim & remove excess glue. -
Carefully push the prepared tube end (with
hardware & wires mounted up into the glue bead leaving 3/16"
space evenly above the top of the plastic tube end. -
Let the glue dry for about 30 - 40 minutes.
Before pouring the epoxy,
carefully apply a coating of Vaseline or wax to the top threaded
area of the brass posts (this is to prevent the epoxy from
migrating up the threads of the posts). Do not allow any of the
wax or Vaseline to get any on the areas that will be submerged
in the epoxy. Make sure the top is perfectly level and fill the end cap with
*epoxy tinted to the desired color all the way to the
paper brim. Note; the Elmer's glue will not adhere to the
plastic end cap, the glue is to seal it to the paper so the
epoxy will not leak through - image #8
Tap Plastic's Super Hard
4- 1 epoxy and their pigments. I'm sure other brands and resins will work equally as well.
Don't use the stuff in the squeeze tubes.
be sure the epoxy it
thoroughly mixed before adding the color pigments for tinting.
The epoxy will not cure properly if you fail to do so.
Prepare a 2.5" mailing tube
as described above for the housing.
The images below can be enlarged by clicking on them
#1 mailing tube
#2 cut in to 6" lengths
#3 trim off lip
#4 install terminals
#5 bead of Elmer's
#6 smooth out seal
#7 ready for epoxy
#8 poor in epoxy
Now stuff it with batteries
and apply the label.
The images below can be enlarged by clicking on them
The epoxy will require 24 or more hours to
completely cure, then continue with these steps (below):
Prepare 2 dual "C" holders (available from
Radio Shack) as shown in. -
Rewire each holder so when the batteries
are installed as shown, they will be 4 batteries in parallel. - image #10
Insulate all the exposed wire and outside
contact areas (all areas are not shown), be sure and do all
on each end of both holders). -
It is very
important that you make sure you have wired the holders
correctly so all 4 batteries are in parallel and installed as
shown, wire the holders so the center (top of No. 6 terminal) is
- image #12
The batteries and holders are now
ready to stuff in the tube. If you sized everything correctly, the
the batteries and holders should fit snugly in the tube with the
end cap in place.
I suggest trimming off the excess label
with a very sharp razor knife after the label is secured in
place and then placing the end cap on. - image #13
Your battery is ready
to use - image #14
I strongly recommend that
you use only high quality, brand new, fresh batteries such as
Duracell or Energizers. Since the batteries are all in parallel,
one weaker battery will drain power from the others and
discharge more quickly. Another way to put this is there will be
current flow from the strong batteries to the weak one/s having
a battery charging effect.
#9 prepare "C" cells
#10 solder negative ends
#11 insulate (all
#12 wire all in parallel
#13 apply label
#14 all done
used in some 1950's transistor radios
4.2 volt mercury energizer
measurements of this battery = .65" dia. x 1-15/16" length.
Unfortunately, the above battery is no longer in
production but if you are capably of a little soldering, here's
how you can bring your radio that needs this battery back to
life. Keep in mind that the my little
battery replacement is a bit larger in diameter (.84"), so before
making one, be sure your battery compartment will accommodate the
made up replacement battery.
All it takes is 3 "AAA" batteries wired in
series and bundled together (like shown in the images below)
then solder to the appropriate terminals.
With the 3 "AAA" cells, you will get 4.5
volts instead of the 4.2, but this difference is not
3 "AAA" cells & a piece of
heat shrink tubing.
form them together
in a triad
Then solder in series solder on lead wires. Use
liquid tape to insulate the ends after soldering
NOTE: Be sure and
determine the correct polarity of the battery and holder before
Philco Safari Television
model H2010 circa 1959
MAKE YOUR OWN BATTERY for this model
Philco H2010 Safari
Unfortunately, a replacement battery for
this historical set has long since been extinct but all is not
lost. Here I will detail how I fabricated a working battery for
my Safari. It will be much easier if you have an original
battery so you can gut it out and replace the contents with new
If you do not have an original, you will
need to fabricate a housing the same size as the original
battery. The measurements are; 7 1/8" tall x 2 5/8" wide x 1
1/2" thick, rounded on all 4 sides. the hardest part will be
finding (or fabricating) an appropriate socket.
If you are not
resourceful, don't have good technical skills & don't know
how to solder properly, you just as well
stop here and seek some help from a skilled technical person. A minor
modification is also required inside the Philco Safari. This
will be explained below.
If you have an original battery, first
remove the paper cover. If done carefully, it can be reused, if
it's badly damaged, I can supply a
Now refer to the pictures below (enlarge by
clicking on them) and follow these steps:
Find an original battery or fabricate a
similar container for the new NiCad's. ref #1
Cut the old container in half and gut the
contents being careful not to damage the socket. ref #2
Once the old battery can is cleaned out,
prepare 7 (sub C size NiCad's). Wire them in series, attach the
positive and negative lead wires, bind them together and
insulate all the terminals. I enclosed the whole NiCad package
in a large piece of heat shrink tubing. ref #3
Now stuff the new battery package in the
bottom half of the can and solder the wires to the battery plug
socket (top of the can). I used thick cardboard spacing
pieces on all 4
sides and the bottom of the battery pack. ref #4
Place a piece of insulating material on the
top of the battery pack to prevent any shorts across the battery
socket's underside and slide the top of the can over the top of the battery
Once everything is properly fitted and
the two halves together using a single layer of metal, aluminum duct tape
carefully placed without bulges or wrinkles. Use this type
because it's thin, has great adhesive power and if done
carefully it will not leave a noticeable seam. ref #5
Before Appling the new label, be sure and
test your new battery pack for function and proper polarity.
Now you can now apply either you original label or I can provide a
label for a nominal fee.
IMPORTANT, before powering up your Safari with your new
battery, a small modification must be made inside the TV. The
old battery provided 7.5 volts, the new one will give 8.4 volts.
A resistor value change should be done to reduce the voltage to
the CRT and the rest of the set.
See Schematic & Mod.
If your Safari works properly from house
current, you are now ready to charge the new battery. With your
TV set to the charging mode, charge the battery for 24 hours. If
your TV is not working properly, have it fixed by someone
knowledgeable before attempting to operate or charge the
With these smaller size (sub-C cells), my
set will run about 2.5 hours before noticing any decrease in
performance. It takes 20 - 24 hours to recharge the battery pack
using the original built-in charger.
NOTE - the set must be turned on and the rear switch in
the charging position to charge the battery. Be sure and turn it
off after 24 hours. There is no built in protection from
overcharge or charge monitoring system in this set.
I only offer the labels for battery making. The fabricating of the
containers is strictly the responsibility of the builder. Although I offer
details of how I did it, I assume no responsibility on how your efforts will
turn out. The Burgess "B" battery label is made for a specific sized box (shown
when clicking on the image link). The height of the label is a bit higher than
needed and is meant to be trimmed to fit your box after mounting.