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First, I clean the
piece inside and out, not just a quick wipe off of the obvious,
but a thorough cleaning. I remove the knobs, clean and shine 'em
if they are dull, clean the panel as best possible even in the
hidden corners. Do the same to the under side and the inside of
the case. Then comes the technical stuff:
1. Check the meter
movement to make sure it doesn't stick or hang up.
2. Check the tube sockets to make sure they are not loose or
worn out and replace the ones that are.
3. Clean all controls and switches and check for smooth and
non-intermittent operation.
4. Check the roll chart to make sure it's intact and rolls
smoothly.
5. Check and replace leaky capacitors when necessary. The same
applies to other components such as resistors, AC cords etc.
6. Inspect for poor soldering and loose connections, correct
when necessary.
7. Complete calibration, then make sure it test's weak tubes weak and good
tubes good, compare Gm readings on the
Mutual Conductance units
(I have a variety of tube types I use for this test).
There are other
little detail items I do that are too numerous to make a point
of, I do all I can to make sure you get a tube tester you can
depend on to perform as it was designed.
The cleaning
and restoration performed does not always end up in a product
that will look like new, but you will get a unit that is clean
inside and out and will perform like new. Many of the old units
were beat up pretty badly and came from shops that were not very
sanitary. So regardless of the wear and tear I promise to clean
them completely and before offering for sale, they will work
properly. This I guarantee.
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6L6 calibration tube, for use when calibrating your
Mutual Conductance tube tester
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