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Suggestions on making a replica
No. 6, 1.5 volt Battery

 

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REPLICA No. 6 "A" cell replica instruction suggestions
HOW
I MADE THEM -

PLEASE NOTE, the information below do not apply
if you are using the Lexan plastic tubes. The plastic
end caps won't fit and other changes must be made
when using the Lexan tubes. I will add additional info
pertaining to an alternate method when time permits.

So at this time, if you choose to use the Lexan tubes,
you will need to to come up with your own construction
 method.
 

I'm going to show you how I make an original looking battery so you can make your vintage radio that requires a No. 6 "A" cell look and operate as it did originally.

DISCLAIMER! PLEASE NOTE THAT THE AUTHOR ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR PROBLEMS, ERRORS OR FAILURES THAT MAY OCCUR IN ANY ATTEMPT FOLLOWING THE SUGGESTIONS I HAVE OUTLINED BELOW. THESE ARE ONLY SUGGESTIONS AND SOME DETAILS MAY HAVE BEEN BE  LEFT  OUT  OR  LEFT UP TO THE  BUILDER TO  FIGURE OUT.

========================================

Information/Suggestions below:

Refer to the steps and pictures below. Please note; I originally used paper mailing tubes for the battery housing until I learned that the size was a bit too large to fit into the battery compartment space on some radio models. I have not updated the images shown for making the battery replicas, so adjust your construction plans accordingly.

  • Start with a 2.5" O.D. Lexan plastic tube (*I formerly recommended paper mailing tubes), available from Tap Plastics in various lengths.
    > image #1
    (below)

  • Foor those of you who only want to make one or two batteries and not have to purchase bulk stock of the Lexan tubes, I offer some pre-cut tubes in the proper size in pairs. See the ordering section for price and to order.

  • Cut the tube to 6-1/8" lengths being careful to make true and even cuts. > image #2

  • Trim the lip from one of the mailing tube ends. > image #3

  • Punch or drill holes for the hardware, install 5/8 brass 8/32 bolts, thumb nuts and wire. Be sure the terminals are flat against the plastic end cap so they do not interfere with the batteries to be installed later. Put a piece of electrical tape over exposed terminal area to prevent contact with the batteries that will be installed later. > image #4

  • Apply a bead of Elmer's glue as shown in > image #5

  • Trim & remove excess glue. > image #6

  • Carefully push the prepared tube end (with hardware & wires mounted up into the glue bead leaving 3/16" space evenly above the top of the plastic tube end. > image #7

  • Let the glue dry for about 30 - 40 minutes. Before pouring the epoxy, carefully apply a coating of Vaseline or wax to the top threaded area of the brass posts (this is to prevent the epoxy from migrating up the threads of the posts). Do not allow any of the wax or Vaseline to get any on the areas that will be submerged in the epoxy. Make sure the top is perfectly level and fill the end cap with *epoxy tinted to the desired color all the way to the paper brim. Note; the Elmer's glue will not adhere to the plastic end cap, the glue is to seal it to the paper so the epoxy will not leak through > image #8

  • *I use Tap Plastic's Super Hard 4- 1 epoxy and their pigments. I'm sure other brands and resins will work equally as well. Don't use the stuff in the squeeze tubes.

  • * I have learned that the batteries made with the paper mailing tubes (which are 2 5/8" O.D.) will not fit certain applications IE: the Radiola 26.

*IMPORTANT NOTE!  be sure the epoxy it thoroughly mixed before adding the color pigments for tinting. The epoxy will not cure properly if you fail to do so.

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Prepare a 2.5" mailing tube as described above for the housing.
The images below can be enlarged by clicking on them


#1 mailing tube


#2 cut in to 6 1/8"


#3 trim off lip


#4 install terminals


#5 bead of Elmer's


#6 smooth out seal


#7 ready for epoxy


#8 poor in epoxy

Now stuff it with batteries and apply the label.
The images below can be enlarged by clicking on them

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The epoxy will require 24 or more hours to completely cure, then continue with these steps (below):

  • Prepare 2 dual "C" holders (available from Radio Shack) as shown in. > image #9

  • Rewire each holder so when the batteries are installed as shown, they will be 4 batteries in parallel. > image #10

  • Insulate all the exposed wire and outside contact areas (all areas are not shown), be sure and do all on each end of both holders).
    > image #11

  • It is very important that you make sure you have wired the holders correctly so all 4 batteries are in parallel and installed as shown, wire the holders so the center (top of No. 6 terminal) is positive.
    > image #12

  • The batteries and  holders are now ready to stuff in the tube. If you sized everything correctly, the the batteries and holders should fit snugly in the tube with the end cap in place.

  • I suggest trimming off the excess label with a very sharp razor knife after the label is secured in place and then placing the end cap on.
    >
    image #13

  •  Your battery is ready to use > image #14

I strongly recommend that you use only high quality, brand new, fresh batteries such as Duracell or Energizers. Since the batteries are all in parallel, one weaker battery will drain power from the others and discharge more quickly. Another way to put this is there will be current flow from the strong batteries to the weak one/s having a battery charging effect.   


#9 prepare "C" cells

#10 solder negative ends

#11 insulate (all
exposed areas)

#12 wire all in parallel

#13 apply label

#14 all done
> Order my battery labels
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© C.E. Clutter

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